If you want to learn about the strategies on how to make a dog come to you, this blog will teach you the tips and tricks that will always get you dog's attention.
If you've called your dog before and you get no response, it can be frustrating, demoralising, and potentially dangerous. What happens next if can't even call your dog back? Should you always keep them on a leash? What should you do if your dog has stopped responding to your calls?
Doggy Dan has tips! Read on to learn more…
Key Takeaways
- Body language matters: Pay attention to your dog's behavior and energy levels. Don't call them back when they're clearly engrossed in play; instead, wait for a natural lull or when they're already heading your way.
- Clear communication is key: Use one consistent command for recall and avoid confusing your dog with multiple phrases or tones. A professional dog whistle can be a valuable tool for clear, long-distance communication.
- Positive reinforcement is powerful: Use tasty treats as a reward during recall training, but remember to keep your dog guessing with random rewards.
Before You Start Training…
Dogs and puppies NOT coming when we call them can be one of the most bothersome things!
We ask nicely, we call them, we shout and scream… We even begin to wonder if our dog or puppy has a hearing problem!
Even worse is when they're running wild at the dog park and we have an audience watching us… so embarrassing for us pet parents!
Let's face it, most dogs only come when they want to. You know, when it's dinner time, when they want a pat or when there's nothing else going on!
But when you REALLY want them to come, because you need to get in the car and go home, or they're about to ruin somebody's picnic, or when they're in dangerous situations… that's when it actually matters most and it seems like it's at this point that many people's attempt at recalling them fails. As a professional dog trainer I've seen it all…
…including those people who are just too scared to let their dog or puppy loose in case they disappear into the sunset!
In fact over the years it seems to me that this is one of THE MOST COMMON behavioral issues and YET… it's one of the simplest to solve (when you know how)! All it usually takes is somebody who knows the tricks to point out where you are going wrong and then you can turn it around.
That's right, it IS possible to train your dog (ANY dog in fact)… Even if they're a husky or a beagle! No matter what age or size or shape or energy levels they have.
So here's a checklist of what to change if you're struggling with getting your dog to come when you call. I'm going to keep it as simple as I can, but you really have to follow the steps for it to make sense! Seriously… The next 5 minutes could change your life forever. Work your way down the list and make sure you've got all these things covered before you start training.
And if you read all 7 you'll discover I have a gift for you at the end. Did you get that? That's right. A free gift. From me to you…
By the way, these really are my 7 Secrets To Success when it comes to the RECALL (which is the general term given to getting your dog to come back when YOU want them too!)
Here we go…
My 7 Secrets To A Successful Recall
- Tasty Treats
- Keep control
- Setting our dogs up to win
- One clear, constant command
- Use the (HUGE) power of random rewards
- Increasing the motivation
- Consider the use of a professional dog whistle
Secret #1: Tasty Treats for Positive Reinforcement
Yes I know, we all hate bribery… BUT trust me on this one thing. If there is ever a time to use food to train your dog then it's when we're developing the recall with our dog.
I'm actually not a fan of using food reward when it comes to stopping behavioral issues but this is different. This is asking our dog to do something as fast as they can and we need to reward (or pay) them so that they do it. Think of the food as payment… After all, would you keep going to work if they stopped paying you?
So when you ask your dog to stop playing with their best friend and come running all the way back to you down the beach — they need more than just a pat!
Making sense?
Of course later on we can fade out the food, but for now, let's just get it happening.
This is so important because if you start to fade it out too soon, before our dogs have developed a strong positive association with basic commands, then the whole process can break down.
Secret #2: Keep Control
One of the most common questions I get asked is what do we do when our dog is running away and won't come back? And the answer is simple…
There is not a lot you can do.
It's the same as when a horse has bolted out the stable and is galloping off. They are out of control!
You see there are really only two ways to get our dogs to come to us…
The first way is when we still have physical control of them — so they're on a long leash or a long lead and we can get them to come to us with a bit of encouragement.
The second is that we have a verbal recall, in other words when we call them they listen and choose to come running! We need to have a reliable recall.
So if you don't have a good recall, we first need to consider option one by purchasing a line before you begin training. The safest way for most dogs is to attach the line to a clip on the back of a dog harness.
If it's just on a dog's collar and you stop your dog abruptly you can injure your dog, so a word of warning there.
That said. This line will give you the opportunity to keep control and then train the recall — it's a game changer!
Remember, without control, and no recall, our dogs are by definition “Out of control.” Don't let that happen.
JOIN MY FREE REACTIVITY CLASSSecret #3: Setting Our Dogs Up To Win
Okay, this is a very subtle concept, yet hugely powerful. Let me first describe a typical scenario that occurs with a lot of dogs…
As soon as they are let off leash they run off — happy as can be. They have heaps of energy which makes dogs start playing or running away fast. Often they pick up on a smell or see other dogs and go visit.
Owners — knowing that they have a recall issue and verbal cue problems — start to panic and want to keep the dog under control so they make the decision to immediately try and call the dog back closer… But the dog is so full of energy and delight at being free that the chance of them coming is next to zero. So why do we call the dog?
Was the dog doing anything wrong?
No.
Was the dog going to run off into the sunset?
No.
Was there any danger?
No.
Is the reason our dogs are off leash so they can run, sniff and play?
Yes.
Was the dog going to have a sniff or a quick play and then follow you?
YES!
In which case we're MUCH better off waiting until our dogs have had a quick run around and are coming TOWARDS us before calling them… then crouch down, give them a treat and let them go.
This is the concept of “Setting the dog up to win.”
We need to let our dogs have fun and call them only when we know they are going to come. Less is actually more. So only call them a few times. That keeps it special.
If our dogs are totally focussed on something such as another dog, try just giving them a bit more time, maybe move closer to them or go and get them calmly.
Remember good dog trainers NEVER call the dog when they know they aren't going to come!
SOLVE DOG REACTIVITYSecret #4: One Clear, Constant Command
Let me ask you a question…
How many different names, phrases or voices do you use when you call your dog?
Come on, be honest!!! Most people have a whole selection of commands. Some when the dog is in trouble, some when there is a treat coming… And the truth is that all these different words, terms and tones of voice just add to our dog's confusion.
We really just want one word or phrase that we use every time and we want it to be in the same consistent tone. This word or phrase should mean “Come here and I'll put food in your mouth and then I'll let you go and play a fun game”.
The more phrases, voices and sounds we use, the more inconsistent it is for our dog or puppy. Remember, dogs can be easily distracted. I know it's not always easy but staying calm and using a consistent command even when our dog isn't coming can be crucial if we want them to come.
And whatever we do, don't tell them off when they finally arrive, just clip the leash on and ignore them. It's so easy to instantly ruin a great recall when we scold them angrily when they finally do come. It becomes a vicious circle and the next time we call them they're even less likely to come.
So remember: That one clear command needs to mean “Come here and I'll put food in your mouth and then I'll let you go and play again!”
Secret #5: Use the (HUGE) Power Of Random Rewards
Why do people play the lottery? To maybe win ten bucks? No… of course not.
Everyone's playing to win the ten million dollars. We want to win HUGE and that's what gets us hooked and coming back for more.
And guess what… It's the same with our dogs! If they never know when they're going to win next, or what they're going to win, they'll keep playing because they know a high-value treat awaits them!
So it's random rewards that work so much better than just using the same food every time. There's a huge difference in performance between a dog who knows the reward is just a dry biscuit at best (probably the same dry biscuits they ate for breakfast) and a dog who thinks they may get a piece of that yummy sausage, a morsel of cheese, or their favourite treat.
Just like humans… I know what I'd do for one million dollars compared to what I'd do for a single dollar.
And just remember the key is to keep our dogs guessing. They shouldn't know which of the treats they are going to get. That's the random bit!
Now one simple way to do that is to have all the treats in a little bag or pocket and only bring the treat out once your dog has arrived. That way they can't see what the random reward will be. And sometimes give your dog more than 1 little piece (Yep, small pieces is better) and sometimes give your dog 5 little pieces of different treats in a row. That's random.
The day you take half a chopped up sausage, a little piece of cheese and some other yummy treat you will see what I mean. You won't be able to get your dog to leave your side!
One sure way to win your dog or puppy's heart is through their belly!
Secret #6: Increasing The Motivation for Dog Training
Now this secret to success is understanding how to increase your dog's motivation and drive to work for YOU
Very simply… a hungry dog will work for food. A dog who is full will generally lose interest.
So try taking them for their walk before you feed them. This way they're hungry and far more motivated by the treats. Over time you'll start to realise that you actually have breakfast in your pouch and they have to “work” for it. It becomes a game
And most dogs LOVE running and eating so it should be fun! It's actually much better for a dog to eat meals AFTER any vigorous exercise for the same reason it's not good for humans to exercise straight after a large meal.
If you must, just a few treats or a small part of their meal before you leave is fine, but don't over feed them or they won't be interested in the training!
Apart from food, tap on fun, too! Begin adding movement to your recall training. Make recall training fun by incorporating games like running or hide and seek!
STOP DOG REACTIVITYSecret #7: Consider The Use of a Professional Dog Whistle As Your Recall Cue
Have you ever wondered why so many farmers use dog whistles? And why more and more professional dog trainers are starting to use them?
The answer is simply because they're easy to use and they work! In fact they're one of the most useful tools when used correctly.
Here's why:
Reason #1: The whistle has a constant sound.
It doesn't matter if you're a bit frustrated with your dog or in a rush or upset, when you blow it the sound that emanates is constant. And your dog responds to that neutral sound very well. The sound of the whistle can be your “emergency word” to call your dog in case of danger.
Reason #2: So easy to use.
A professional dog whistle is very easy to blow (be careful of the metal ones when it's really cold though as I've had them stick to my lips).
Reason #3: The sound of a whistle travels a long way.
The whistle can produce a sound that travels a lot farther than you can shout. Voices don't travel that well, especially if you have a quiet voice.The whistle that I use can travel up to 500 feet and it's gentle on your vocal chords!
Reason #4: Easy to hear.
Good dog whistles operate at a high frequency. This means that they can pick up the sound easily and it's appealing to them but not at all harsh on the human ear.
Reason #5: The high pitch sound.
Using whistlealso cuts through all the background noise such as other people shouting, wind, trees and bushes because it's such a unique sound.
Reason #6: Saves your voice.
You never need to shout or raise your voice in front of people ever again.
Reason #7: Fresh start.
For many people, the quickest way to develop a great recall is to start again with a fresh sound. The whistle gives us this chance.
Reason #8: It can be used as your emergency recall.
If you think your dog has wandered to longer distances, it's great to have a tool you can make your dog come back in case of danger. The Doggy Dan dog whistle can do that for you.
So there you go. Start at the top and put ALL those steps into place and if you are still struggling consider trying the whistle.
I use the whistle when I REALLY need my dogs to come immediately!! (As you will see in the video below!) However I can still use my voice command around the house etc.
It means I have a recall… and then I have my SUPER URGENT whistle recall when I need them to come running as fast as they can.
Of course there are lots more tips and tricks that I'll share with you later but I'm sure that's enough for you to get started on something right now.
So I hope that's been of real help.
GET MY 5 GOLDEN RULES FOR FREEAnd now my gift to you…
Remember as a dog owner a Whistle can be one of the most useful items you can ever own, but it's totally useless unless you know HOW TO USE IT!
So I've put together an online course (plus free DVD) called the ‘Whistle Training Masterclass' where I show you EXACTLY how to stop your dog dead in their tracks and come to you everytime you call (a do a whole lot more!). And the awesome news is I'm giving away a FREE Professional Dog Training Whistle, Lanyard and DVD.
And the even better news is… I'm running a special on the whistle bundle right now, where you can save $20 off the normal price.
Just click on the link below, watch me using this exact whistle and tell me where you would like your order sent…
~Doggy Dan 🙂
45 Responses
I’m so excited to try these tips with my own dog! I’ve been struggling to get her to come when called, especially when there are distractions around. Fingers crossed that these secrets will help us finally have a reliable recall system in place.
You’re welcome!
I can’t agree more! I’ve been using these techniques with my own dog and it has made such a huge difference. It’s amazing how consistent training can help a dog learn to come when called every time. I’ve tried other methods in the past, but this one has been the most effective by far. Thanks for sharing!
It’s a unique method that as you say absolutely works! So glad you found it. All the best
I completely agree with this blog post! I’ve been working on training my dog to come when called, and it’s been a challenge. But with consistency and patience, I’ve seen great results. My dog is now consistently coming when called, even in distracting situations. It’s such a relief to know that I can trust my dog to come to me whenever I need him. Thanks for sharing these tips!
Great tips! I have a puppy and I’m always looking for new ways to improve our training sessions. I’m definitely going to try out the “high reward” method you mentioned, as my puppy loves treats and toys. I’m hopeful that it will help him learn to come when called more consistently. Thanks for sharing these tips!
You’re welcome
“Was the dog going to have a sniff or a quick play and then follow you?” Probably not. My golden will follow a butterfly or a scent and completely forget me. I have had 6 dogs before her and never had this problem. As a pup she got lost 3 times in a large off-leash park. Eventually she will realize she’s lost and find someone to help her. She checks in more often now that she is older but will still ignore me if there is anything more interesting around. I have used treats, whistles, special words. When she decides to head for the river she’s gone. I can see her looking back at me and deciding to ignore me. I am afraid she’ll get hurt.
“Was the dog going to have a sniff or a quick play and then follow you?” Probably not. My golden will follow a butterfly or a scent and completely forget me. I have had 6 dogs before her and never had this problem. As a pup she got lost 3 times in a large off-leash park. Eventually she will realize she’s lost and find someone to help her. She checks in more often now that she is older but will still ignore me if there is anything more interesting around. I have used treats, whistles, special words. When she decides to head for the river she’s gone. I can see her looking back at me and deciding to ignore me. I am afraid she’ll get hurt.
Coco is 8 months old always twinkles when exited. He was recently neutered and it still continues.
What to do?
(I think u r in Australia, I hope far enough from the fire )
Hi, thanks for your concern! I live in New Zealand so not within danger but we did get smoke drifting over from the Australian fires, which was pretty surprising!
Submissive urination can be common in young dogs, particularly when meeting strangers or when owners come home. The key to solving it is to try to keep Coco’s excitement/adrenaline level low and the best way to do this is to limit interaction with him when he would normally get excited/nervous and pee. If he does it when you arrive home then avoid speaking to him, making eye contact or touching him until he is calm for a few minutes and then call him to you to calmly say ‘hi’. If he is meeting strangers then ask them to wait until he is calm before they say ‘hi’ and ask them to call Coco to them, rather than approach him. Good luck, Doggy Dan!
My 10month old border collie won’t come when called and will follow other dogs. I have long line and when he’s on that acts perfect comes and is given a high value treat (turkey, chicken etc) how can I get him to come without the lead because as said when he’s on it he’s great
Hi Joanne,
Recall is absolutely one of those behaviours that take patience and a lot of practice in some cases. One of the factors that can cause things to come undone is having too much distraction around when attempting to practice off-leash recall. The best way to approach practice is to start with limited distraction, so that you have your dog’s undivided attention and they are more likely to return to you and understand that they receive a reward for doing so. Once they are consistently responding with limited distraction then you move on to working in an area with a medium level of distraction and continue your practice in that environment…working all the way up to high distraction. Once your dog’s recall is good (on a long-line) with high distraction then you can feel more confident that they will respond positively if you allow them completely off-leash. If they get it wrong then place them back on-leash so that you can remind them how you would like them to behave. I always start each lesson on-leash so that I can reinforce and remind my dogs what the rules are and then we progress to off-leash if they are responding correctly. My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com has some great resources for mastering recall…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan
Hi- my 1 year old Border Terrier was doing so well at recall until recently when she took off after some deer and was gone for over 5 hours. Since then I have been too worried about losing her again to let her off her lead. What should I do?
Mastering good recall around distractions is one of those things that can take a little practice and a lot of patience. It’s common for even the most responsive dogs to have occasions where it all falls apart but the key is to go back to basics and reinforce the right behaviours. That may mean going back to using a long-line and treats for recall, and if you can do some practice around the things that trigger her then that’s even better. My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com shows you very clearly how to achieve this…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan
Got your DVD on recall and the free dog whistle. It is fantastic! It works wonderfully well!! When free in the dog park, my dog runs 300 meters to come to me when I blow the whistle. Last night while putting out the rubbish bins for collection, dog got out the gate and took off down the street and around the block, and heaven knows where, I ran inside and got my dog whistle and a special treat (steak trimmings), blew the whistle and he came belting back to me like lightening!! So impressive!! I just LOVE the whistle!! and of course your DVD on how to use it.
Hi Marilyn….it sounds like you have mastered one of the biggest challenges for many dog owners…good recall!! It is such a proud moment to realise your dog is starting to respond when asked, especially around high distraction, and to be honest I still get a big kick out of it! Well done in applying the strategies that helped your dog realise coming to you when called is a positive and good thing for them. Thanks for the feedback and keep up the great work! All the best, Doggy Dan
I recently got a 8 month old dog. He was with a rescue nonprofit from his birth. He was surrounded by his mother and 8 to 10 other dogs and cats. I got him about a month ago and he is scared of me. He was crate trained but wont come out when he see me unless I pull him out. He is comfortable around my 2 daughters and wife. But as soon as he see me starts to freak out. Although when I get him on a leash he will walk with me with tail lowered and comfortable. But as soon as I undo leash he runs from me. I need some help!!!!
Hi Paul,
Moving into a new home can be an incredibly unsettling time for all dogs. Going from somewhere that is very familiar, surrounded by his siblings and Mother, to somewhere he knows no-one and the environment is foreign is stressful. So in this case your dog just need a little time and patience and believe it or not the less attention you pay him the better. If he is unsure about you and you try to force interactions then it can be really counterproductive. As hard as it is, patience is key. Avoid approaching him to give affection and attention, call him to you with a high value treat, but if he refuses to come then leave him to it. He will eventually begin to understand that you are nothing to be concerned about, he just needs a little ore time.
My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com talks about working with fearful/nervous dogs…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan
I have enjoyed reading /watching your dog articles and they have been most helpful for me with Violet my American pit bull terrier. She’s 5 months old, she is starting a bad habit of trying to bite and bark excessively when ever I tell her no, she stops doing what I say no to but now has this other behavior, any suggestions. Thanks Pam
Hi Pam,
I would actually recommend that you no longer tell your dog ‘no’ in response to her biting/barking. It may sound odd to advise this but often these behaviours are motivated by attention seeking and if you speak to her in response, even to tell her off, then she learns the behaviour works and she will continue to do it. If she is doing an unwanted behaviour then there are better ways of encouraging her to stop doing them. My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com shows you very clearly how…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan
We have a six year old small terrier rescue dog that we’ve had for 6 months. Whoever trained him, trained him well – except – he does not ever want to come indoors. He also ‘seems’ to completely ignore me when outdoors, but is very close indoors. He will NOT come when I call. I’m willing to try the whistle, but do you think it will work? thank you
Hi Florence, the only way to know if the whistle training will work is to try it but you do need to make sure you follow my advice as recommended. It may take a little patience and some dedicated training sessions but that’s normal when creating new habits with any dog. There is no need to buy an expensive dog whistle either, in fact if you can whistle loudly enough then just try that as your first option. The key is for your dog to realise that coming when you call means a big jackpot or payoff so be sure to have some higher values treats or a favourite toy ready to reward their recall. Hope it all goes well! Dan
Love this article, extremely informative. I am also, as of 2 weeks ago, having an issue with my 7mth Boston Terrier. 1 wk after getting spayed (& cast off front leg) she is now terrified of LCD TV on the wall, the graphics, colors (not the sound). She used to love playing and napping with us on the bed, now she won’t stay upstairs where that room is. I have tried treats in the bed and it didn’t work, she burrows her head toward the headboard. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Ellyn,
Whenever something changes in a dog’s routine, life or environment it can cause their behaviour to change. In all cases the reason the behaviour has changed is not as important as how you respond and with the kind of behaviour your describe often a ‘less is more’ or ‘make nothing of it’ approach is best. Giving too much attention to a fearful behaviour can actually be counterproductive in overcoming the issue and so my suggestion would be to go and watch some TV but not pay any attention to her at all. If she chooses to stay out of the bedroom then avoid trying to call her in and just see what she does if you ignore her and keep watching TV. Often a dog will realise that if you aren’t making a fuss then maybe there isn’t anything they need to worry about and she may just need a little space and time to come to that realisation on her own steam. My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com also deals with this kind of fearful/nervous behaviour…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan
I have just recently acquired an English cocker spaniel who has been trained by a previous owner I am gradually getting there, but recall at the beach is almost impossible the seagulls lure him out quite deep I am willing to give the whistle a go as my voice is soft. Your online training has been very effective
Hi Norma,
We have had a lot of great feedback about the whistle training masterclass and it really does help with recall, especially around distractions and over distances. As with anything consistency and practice are key! Best….Doggy Dan
Hi Dan. I use food for training,always have, but find that my two border collies arent interested in the food when we are out n about. My 8mnth old pup is too interested in the older dog. any ideas please.?
Hi Pauline, have you put in place my foundational training that can be found at TheOnlineDogTrainer.com I have found that this foundational work is what will really help to get the attention of your dogs when you are out. 8 months is a good age to start, its a complete training program. Treats are good for recall work however you usually need a bit of dog psychology thrown in as well, especially with 2 smart collies! Cheers Dan
I have a treeing walker hound, a coon hunting dog.
Ever since I got her spade at 18 months old, she has been jumping over our 4 foot fence onto our very dangerous rd. and because she’s a hunting dog she just follows her nose and its very difficult to get her to come. Do you have a specific video I could purchase to train her to not have any desire to leave our spacious 1 1/2 acre property. We have 2 other dogs that never run away.
Hi Theresa, I don’t unfortunately have a specific video for you to purchase in relation to this behaviour. The reason being that our aim is to deal with the cause of the behaviour and not just the symptom, and until you do that then the behaviour will not be effectively solved in the long-term. Dogs who run away from home usually do so out of a sense of responsibility and so that role needs to be changed in their minds. Can I just ask, does your dog only escape your property when you are away from the home? We do deal with this kind of behaviour on my membership website, but more importantly we teach owners how to change a dog’s sense of responsibility within their pack/family and this solves the vast majority of behavioural issues. Best, Dan
Love all your lessons. This is my third dog in over thirty years and I’m finally getting it right. Regarding the dog whistle – we live in a very close knit community with many dogs. Should I use the whistle? Won’t I get reactions from other dogs.
Hi Carol, I generally find that it is only really mine that actually come running…some others may pay a bit of attention but you’ll be fine, enjoy the whistle and all the best with the training Dan
Hi Dan been following your advice on being pack leader and it’s going well thanks. Problem I’ve got is sonny my 8 month old husky jumping up on people. When I am not there to stop him. He has been barred from day care kennels because of this. He sometimes does it to my Mrs and kids when he in hyper mode. Any help would be great thanks. Jock
Hi Jock,
Most jumping up on people is a dominance issue rather than a training one. By that I mean a dog instinctively knows that jumping onto another dog is a dominant move and most dogs have been told its not acceptable. When it comes to humans, many of us encourage dominant behaviour in and around the house without even realising it and then wonder why the dog does the same thing at the park…Check out my site http://theonlinedogtrainer.com The pack leader section inside the site goes through exactly why the 5 Golden Rules will sort out this issue. Its pretty east to stop once its explained and you put it into practice…best regards, Dan
How do I get the digital copy of your Whistle DVD bundle? (my DVD player doesn’t work!)I can’t find any mention of it in your e-mails.
Thanks Doggy Dan. I am enjoying your online dog training course and my puppy is becoming a real joy (without the bad habits).
Hi Rhona, once you purchase the Whistle DVD bundle you will receive access to all the videos online so you can get started straight away. Glad you are enjoying the online training 🙂 Cheers Dan
thank you for these wonderful tips. cant wait to use them!
Thanks Mehrnaz, you are more than welcome. Have a great day 🙂
Hello Doggy Dan,
I really enjoyed your blog on recall, thank you. I will work more on this. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to download the the free 4 Part video series, the link leads to an “error.”
Please can you help me with my 15 month old Teacup Schnauzer. He has resource guarding issues with me. Is very protective over me. Doesn’t like to share me with anyone, including my hubby and has started going for him/them when they get close. He even bit a friend over the Christmas season when I was holding him and she gave me a hug 🙁
Hi Lorna, my best suggestion for your first port of call if you are looking for help regarding your Teacup Schnauzer is that you get hold of my comprehensive training program. Theonlinedogtrainer.com this will take care of the cause of the problem as well as the actual guarding and protecting of you. It sounds like its getting serious. http://theonlinedogtrainer.com
All the best Dan
Brilliant sensible and kind. Great advice for dogs and owners. Gives us back common sense and that compassion for fellow creatures
Thanks Sylvia appreciate your kind words and glad that you enjoyed it. All the best, Dan
Hello Dan,
Another great article you have shared here on your Blog. I have a little Chihuahua and if he gets the chance to sneak out the door he is off like a rocket…
Your tips you give here will help me get the little guy back on his leash and out of trouble.
Thanks again…
Larry B.
I believe so Larry! Thanks for your kind words. All the best, Dan